If I HAD to go back to living on land I'd like a house like this, but somewhere MUCH quieter than the Vecht! |
13.3°C
Sunny with hazy clouds, hot and muggy later. Clouding over by mid-afternoon
then brightening up again and getting very hot. Set off at 9.20 am heading on
up the Vecht. As we passed close by the Amsterdam-Rijn-Kanal (ARK) we could see
the top of an empty tanker called Gemini, 110m long and travelling much faster
than us. Above us air traffic from Schipol was heading off for foreign parts
and we felt a light shower of rain spots but couldn’t see any dark clouds above
which made us wonder... Nah, they empty the aircraft toilet tanks when the land
nowadays, don’t they? On one
of the bends before we got to Overmeer, as I was
taking a photo of a windmill, the bows of a loaded commercial called Siementa
appeared coming round the right hand bend. There was just room after a row of
houseboats to tuck into the outside of the bend out of his way! The campsite
before Overmeer on the left hand bank was now offering luxury chalets for sale with
their own grounds. Moorings all along the bank by their other caravans were pay
moorings, even on the opposite bank there were signs
that said “liggeld
perflichtig” – mooring charges apply, 4€ per night on the far bank. Right at
the end of the moorings was a stretch of three day mooring for free. Guess
which had boats moored and which were empty? Past another dredger. We were
going to go around the back of an island on the right but decided not to, good
job as there was more dredging and another commercial was moored at the other
end of the island waiting for a load of dredgings. Passed the entrance to the
Hilversum canal where several small cruisers were waiting to access the lock on
to it. A small pusher tug went past and
there was a load of oil on the surface
of the water. Past another dredger which was in the middle with signs to say
pass on its left. The dredgings were coming out black and foul-smelling. Around
10.30 am cruisers started appearing on the river to add to the open motor boats
that were already cruising up and down. Into Vreeland where there was a
windmill with a cutout shape of a stork attached to one of its sails. Under the
bascule liftbridge, Van Leerbrug, with our mast lying flat on the roof and
carefully through the next one as it had hanging red and white painted bars
under the lifting deck (2.1m air clearance) but we got through OK. On the other
side there was a British replica Dutch barge, called Lucie, tying up to wait
for the bridge. Its skipper shouted “you’re a long way from home!” I replied
that we were at home, to which he added “So are we!” Into Loenen with more
cruisers overtaking, ignoring the 6kph speed limit, we were doing 6kph! Signs
on the bank announced police speed
checks! Caught them up at the next bascule
bridge, which we couldn’t get under as it was too low, we waited with the queue
and an old chap worked it for us and came out to say he liked our boat. Past a
small palace with ornate gardens and a moored tjalk, called Utrecht, to which
had been added loads of decorative painted wooden carvings and a stern cabin to
imitate a galleon. More moorings had been added by the water tap, all of which
were now charged for. The next bridge was a modern bascule bridge, we waited
again with the two cruisers although we
could have gone under the deck there
was too much traffic about to do that – loads of open motor boats went under
the side arches. There was a line of houseboats, the floating wooden chalet
type, all along the left bank. Mike tried speeding up to keep up with the cruisers,
we did 8kph but didn’t catch up, so we reckoned they were doing around 10kph.
Futile to try and catch them. However, they were waiting at the next bridge at
Nieuwersluis, where there was a lock chamber open at both ends before the
liftbridge, we waited a short while before
the liftbridge opened. Another
branch to the right connected with the ARK. Beyond the bridge the river water
was very muddy. A Locaboat hireboat went past as we were going past a row of
small palatial residences, I took a photo of one called Stereschans and next to
its manicured lawns was a beautifully varnished launch. Past more very
expensive houses and then one of the tiny entrances (low bridge and a short
lock) on to the Loosdrechtseplassen, a series of polder lakes now used for
recreation by many small boats. Yet another dredger, this one
wasn’t working
until we got level with it, then the dredger driver started his prop turning
blowing our bows towards the right bank, a quick twiddle and we were heading
back to the middle of the river. The banks were lined with fields for a short
distance before the start of the houses on the outskirts of Breukelen
(pronounced like the region of New York, Brooklyn). The mooring quay was more
or less full, no gaps big enough to get our 18m into, even if we’d moved the
cruisers up a bit. A refugee trip boat from Amsterdam was unloading passengers
and had left his prop turning while he did it. Along the quay were new signs
that said mooring charges applied.
Cross that one off our list of good moorings
and we carried on. Mike dropped our mast and took the ensign off again and we
passed under the bascule liftbridge without waiting for it to be opened. Beyond
the bridge there were several moorings marked along the grassy bank by a busy
road and all had signs saying mooring charges applied. Keep going. It was the
same through Maarssen, we guessed it would be. A cruiser passing by had a red
ensign on its stern, the crew smiled and shouted hello as we passed. A couple
of boats were moored by the first liftbridge,
Vechtbrug, waiting, and beyond it
there were miles of empty moorings all with the new signs saying mooring
charges apply. We had to wait for the first bridge, lots of open motor boats
were going under its low deck which would still have been too low if we’d
stripped all the stuff off the roof to try and get under it. Round the corner,
passing houses on both banks with brick-paved quays and walls, where there were
lots of no mooring signs and we came to the next liftbridge, Termeerbrug. We
waited. I made a cuppa. Two boats came up behind us and the keeper arrived on a
scooter to let all three of us through his second bridge. He came to the edge
of the bridge to say he liked our boat in perfect English. More empty pay
moorings as we went
through the town and past the new police station right next
to the river. Two policeboats, RIBs with big outboards, were moored outside.
Moored dredging pans and a tug, then a small tug went past with a man stood on
its roof to steer it – obviously because the pans he pushes were higher than
the tug, but it looked very odd without a pan in front of it. One of the two
boats we’d been following had turned right on to the ARK through another short
arm, just after that we passed a hire base that had lots of small open motor boats
for hire – that’s where they’re all coming from! A big house building project
on the left bank and a string of houseboats on the right, more dredging pans
and a tug had got a long narrow floating pontoon attached to a houseboat which
he was about to move! That surprised us, didn’t realise they were moving the
houseboats to dredge underneath them! A long low open boat went past with the
steerer and one lady cyclist on board, it was a cycle ferry boat – something
like a bus. Under a high road bridge and the houses at last started thinning
out a bit and there were fields with grazing cows plus several windmills on the
left. The moorings on a bend as we approached Oud-
Zijlen were closed, probably
due to the dredging programme; we spotted some sections of the wooden bank
edging had great chunks of wood missing where something had hit it, maybe
dredging pans? On into town and we caught up again with the white cruiser we’d
gone through the last liftbridge with. He was waiting for Plompbrug to open. We
waited behind him. The wind blew us gently on to the waiting area stumps and we
threw a rope around one, as did the boat in front. A gaggle of cruisers were
arriving on the far side and milling about as there was nowhere for them to tie
up and wait. One of them even hooted, silly person, there was no resident
keeper, it was remotely operated judging by all the cameras surrounding the
bridge. Eventually the cruisers on the far side started milling about again as
the deck lifted, they got the green light first, then we followed the cruiser
through. More new signs had appeared on the bank where we had moored in pouring
rain last year. Mooring fees apply now and we couldn’t get close to the bank
last time. We went for the set of posts with no bank access a bit further on,
there was a sign saying it was a mooring for 2x24 hours – and something black
and tall had run into the sign which was higher than our cabin roof - a
dredging pan perhaps? We gave up and moored to the only free mooring we’d seen
since we set off. It was 2.45 pm and we had no land access. Never mind, the car
can stay where it is.
Loaded with dredgings, met on a bend. |
Trip boat River Cloud |
Windmill before Overmeer |
Stereschans, very palatial |
Varnished launch next to lawns at Stereschans |
Nijenrode castle, south of Breukelen |
Sign crazy - all restrictions |
Modern bascule bridge at Maarssen |
Tug about to move a houseboat |
Dredger at Maarssen |
Coming in to moor by stumps at Oud-Zijlen |
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